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When we watch the Pope on television, we always see him in a long robe. Cardinals, bishops, and priests in Vatican City also wear distinctive clothing. These uniforms are all custom-made locally and by hand. But what are the rules, and why are certain colors worn? The Vatican’s tailor explains how this works…
Mancinelli Clero
Mancinelli Clero is a small shop, just a minute away from the famous St. Anne’s Gate in Vatican City. Although you might not see it from the outside, this is the place where the Vatican clergy have been buying their clothing since 1962. The shop is run by the owner of the same name and his family.
Vatican tailor talks about uniforms and dress codes
When there is a special occasion in the Vatican, it means busy times at Mancinelli Clero. An example of this was when Pope Francis appointed about 21 new cardinals on September 30, 2023. In the weeks leading up to this ceremony, clergy members come by to purchase their clothing and accessories.
During important moments, cardinals wear a red soutane. This is a long robe worn under other garments, so only the bottom part is visible. Officially, it should have 33 buttons, representing the number of years Christ lived. But because dressing takes time, people often opt for fewer buttons nowadays. A sash in the same red color is worn around the waist of the soutane.
It is no coincidence that all cardinals are dressed in red. This color, officially called scarlet, represents the blood of Christ. This is the blood that the cardinals must be willing to shed in service of the Church, says Clero.
The soutane is covered by the rochet, a white garment with a wide lace border. The cleric who buys the clothing can decide what the lace looks like, allowing them to show a bit of personal taste. In the past, this lace was handmade, but nowadays it is often machine-made. “The advantage is that it is cheaper and also more durable. Handmade lace is generally more fragile and harder to maintain,” according to Clero.
Over the rochet, a mozzetta is worn. This is a cape in the same scarlet color as the soutane. It falls to the elbows and usually has 9 or 10 buttons.
The accessories of the clergy
Around the neck, bishops and cardinals wear a pectoral cross. During a consistory, cardinals also receive a cardinal’s ring, which represents their communion with the See of Peter.
On their heads, cardinals wear a biretta, a square hat with stiff flaps. Underneath, they wear the zucchetto, a small, round cap. The Pope also wears one, but in white.
For the September 30 ceremony, Mancinelli Clero brought the hats to the Vatican. The name of the buyer is inscribed inside. During the appointment, the Pope placed a hat on the head of each cardinal.
Black soutane in the Vatican
Besides the red soutane, there is also a black version with colored details. These are worn during the daily activities of cardinals and bishops. The color indicates the person’s rank.
If the details are amaranth, similar to fuchsia, the person is a non-cardinal bishop. Bishops themselves also wear a black soutane, but combined with scarlet. They often wear a pectoral cross with a green or gold chain.
As you can see, like all other uniforms, the cardinals of the Pope do not just wear anything. Each detail and color has a meaning. This makes you look at these robes in a whole new way.
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