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Have you ever noticed that some naval uniforms have not only gold stripes on the sleeve cuffs but also a distinctive curl on top? Like many elements of formal uniforms, this detail has historical significance—and a fascinating backstory.
The Executive Curl or Elliot’s Eye
This iconic curl originated with the Royal Navy, the naval warfare branch of the United Kingdom, its overseas territories, and crown dependencies. It’s often referred to as the “Executive Curl” or “Elliot’s Eye.” The latter name is linked to Captain George Elliot (1813-1901). According to legend, during the Crimean War, he injured his arm and used the gold lace from his uniform as a sling, creating a loop that inspired the curl’s design.
Others claim the name comes from William Elliot, a member of the Board of Admiralty in 1800 and 1801, which oversaw the British Navy’s administrative and operational control. He supposedly saw a loop in a rope, inspiring the curl on naval uniform sleeves.
What the curl on uniform stripes means
In 1748, the Board of Admiralty decided to distinguish naval uniforms from other officers’ attire. In 1783, gold lace stripes were added to sleeves to indicate rank. A century later, in 1856, the distinctive curl was introduced, reserved initially for executive officers. Engineers gained the right to wear it in 1915, and other officers followed in 1918.
Although the curl became more widespread, variations emerged. In the Royal Navy, the lace forms a straight line before looping into a rounded curl. In the British Army, the loop peaks upward, creating a crow’s foot-like design. Over time, many adaptations developed.
An International Symbol
Today, 55 countries use the curl on their naval officer uniforms. Notably, many of these nations are monarchies. In countries like Russia, the U.S., and Germany, a star often replaces the curl. Some navies use square or other geometric shapes. The curl even disappears and reappears in some countries—such as in Canada, where it was reintroduced in 2010 for the navy’s centennial celebration.
The curl or star isn’t limited to sleeves; it’s also used on epaulettes and shoulder boards in some uniforms.
Expensive Tradition
For the British, the tradition of gold lace curls remains significant. Only one company in England, Wyedean Weaving Co. Ltd. from West Yorkshire, supplies gold lace to Royal Navy tailors. The lace is made from genuine gold thread with a copper core.
A 25-meter spool of Gold Gilt Wire Naval Lace costs £750 (about €911). Crafting one spool takes 10 days, and the company produces about 3,000 meters annually for the Royal Navy. Due to high costs, the navy has switched to synthetic gold lace for service dress epaulettes, producing around 7,000 meters per year.
This small detail carries a rich history—and comes with a hefty price tag!
Best regards,
Aileen