British ambulance service introduces women’s trousers – and what they wore before

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This year, for the first time, the British ambulance service will provide women’s trousers. The female staff, who make up over 40% of the workforce, currently wear men’s clothing. And that’s quite remarkable, considering that women used to receive clothing designed for their bodies. So what went wrong in the meantime, causing women to suddenly have to wear men’s uniforms? And what did they wear in the past? In this article, I’ll tell you all about it.

 

Women in the British ambulance service

Women have played important roles in the ambulance service for over a century. It all started with the Women’s Reserve Ambulance Corps (1915–1919), which was established during World War I. This organization, also known as the Green Cross Corps, consisted of women who volunteered for the British ambulance service. They cared for the wounded and dying, retrieved bodies, and helped clean up the streets. Although women had previously worked in ambulance services, this was the first time they were officially recognized as employees.

At the time, there was much debate over whether it was appropriate for women to perform these duties. While some media reports praised their valuable work, critics argued that they were “encroaching on male territory.”

British ambulance service introduces women’s trousers – and what they wore before
Left: Part of the painting Victoria Station 1918 – the Green Cross Corps (Women’s Reserve Ambulance) guiding soldiers on leave, by Clare Atwood | Right: Women’s Reserve Ambulance,, Green Cross Society – Ministry of Information First World War Official Collection

Despite the controversy, the women of the Green Cross Corps did not wear men’s uniforms but rather a specially designed outfit suited to their roles and body types. They wore a khaki-colored coat with a long skirt underneath. On their shoulders, they displayed a black metal or bronze title badge engraved with “Green Cross.”

 

Women’s clothing in World War II

While female ambulance workers faced criticism during World War I, they were actively recruited during World War II. They took on roles as nurses, ambulance drivers, and, in some cases, officers. Female ambulance drivers were often responsible for maintaining their vehicles as well.

The drivers’ uniforms closely resembled those worn during World War I. Once again, they consisted of a coat and skirt, though the details varied over time.

British ambulance service introduces women’s trousers – and what they wore before
Left: Poster encouraging women to become ambulance drivers (1939–1945), part of the Imperial War Museum | Right: Portrait of Lady Mountbatten in the uniform of the St John Ambulance Brigade in the living room of her home on Belgrave Square (Women at War 1939–1945)

Although skirts were the standard for female ambulance workers, some wartime roles did require trousers. For instance, Russian women fought alongside men during World War I, and both genders wore trousers. However, this was still an exception. By World War II, women had taken on a wider range of roles. In most professions, they continued to wear women’s workwear, but trousers became more common in technical and combat-related roles.

 

Workwear became more functional

After World War II, work clothing became increasingly practical. The formal ambulance uniform was replaced by overalls for convenience. However, one significant change was the fit. Whereas female ambulance workers previously received uniforms tailored to their bodies, they now had to wear men’s clothing. While skirts were no longer required, the ill-fitting uniforms put women at a disadvantage once again.

In the video below, you can see how uniforms evolved after World War II. In the final seconds, it becomes clear that the female paramedic is wearing a suit designed for the male body. The jacket is too tight around her chest and hips, the fabric bunches around her waist and shoulders, and the crotch hangs too low. When she walks away from the side, you can see how the fabric pulls uncomfortably across her hips.

British ambulance service introduces women’s trousers

Now, at last, the time has come: this year, the British ambulance service will introduce women’s trousers for the first time. According to Darren Farmer, Director of Ambulance Operations for the London Ambulance Service, the current uniform options need urgent updates. “I recognize that the need for a truly inclusive uniform offering goes far beyond simply providing trousers with a female fit.”

British ambulance service introduces women’s trousers – and what they wore before
Left: Men’s ambulance trousers | Right: Women’s ambulance trousers

Farmer refers to the plans of the National Ambulance Uniform Users Group (NAUUG), which was established in response to a critical research report published in 2019. The report highlighted several major issues with the existing uniforms: poor fit for women, lack of maternity wear, and complaints from menopausal women about polo shirts that did not allow for adequate ventilation. Respondents also called for options like religious head coverings, including turbans, hijabs, and kippahs.

With a workforce that is 42.5% female, one might expect that women’s uniforms would have been prioritized. However, that wasn’t the case. Religious head coverings—needed by only 6.3% of employees—were implemented first, along with maternity wear. Both were added to the national ambulance uniform catalog by 2022. Now, six years after the report was published, the first clothing item designed for all female staff members is finally being introduced.

 

The trousers that took a century

It is remarkable that female ambulance workers in Britain had to wait over 100 years for trousers designed for their bodies. Unfortunately, they are not alone. Just two weeks ago, I wrote an article about body armor for women, which shares many similarities with this issue.

Women served in the military during both World Wars, yet they were never provided with protective vests designed for their bodies. For over a century, they were forced to rely on body armor that not only compressed their chests but also hindered their ability to perform their duties. Because these vests did not fit properly, female soldiers were less protected than their male counterparts. And yet, it wasn’t until the 21st century that a model designed for the female body was finally introduced.

 

The rise of functional workwear

The key difference lies in functionality. When women wore clothing that was aesthetically pleasing, investments were made. The first nurses’ uniforms emerged in the late 1800s, although these garments were not particularly practical. However, they conformed to societal expectations of how women should dress: in a skirt, complete with a hat and apron. This is why nursing was one of the first professions where women were allowed to wear a uniform.

It is thanks to the independence and mobility of female nurses during World War II that they were able to wear well-fitting trousers. As these women traveled to care for wounded soldiers, they were free to choose their own work attire. It quickly became clear that trousers were far more practical than skirts—especially since male patients often lay on the ground, making it easy for them to see up female nurses’ skirts.

But this was an exception. According to recent British research, only 2 out of 25 industries have consistently provided women’s workwear. The ambulance initiative is a step forward, but there is still a long way to go. Equality may exist in our minds, but not yet in our workwear.

Best regards,
Aileen

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